Hosebånd

Plaited garters

Notes

Before elasticised stockings, garters were used by both men and women.
Plaited garters are more elastic and therefore more comfortable on the leg.
Garters are usually 110 to 115 centimetres long. The heavier the leg, the longer the garter that will be required.
Wool should be cut to lengths at least 50% longer than the final length of the garter.
12+12(=24) strands of yarn (eg a 2-ply) should produce a garter about 2.5 centimetres in width (about 1 inch). Use an even number of strands.
Using 2 (or more) colours of yarn of equal weight make for easier plaiting.
Plait from the centre of the garter towards the ends.
Garters are worn tied around the top of the stocking just below the kneecap.

Procedure

Step 1: Using 2 colours of yarn, group all strands of one colour in the centre. Divide the second colour into 2 equal groups, and arrange on either side of the centre group. Lay the strands over 2 sticks (popsickle sticks, pencils, chopsticks, etc). Weave the first stick through the strands at their centre point, passing alternately over and under each strand. Weave the second stick through the strands, parallel but opposite to the first, to form a shed. Ie a strand passing over the first stick, passes under the second and vice versa. Fasten the strands, behind the shed, to something immoveable, or lay something heavy (eg a brick) on them to keep them immobile. [I find the bag clips from IKEA helpful to keep the strands in place.] Divide the strands evenly into a left and right group with same number of strands in each.
Step 2: Begin plaiting from the left. Hold the left group of strands in your left hand, and pass your right forefinger alternately over and under the strands in that group - opposite to the nearer shed stick. Grasp the outermost strand on the left side, pull it through the temporary shed formed by your finger. Add that strand to the right group of strands.
Step 3: Hold the right group of strands in your right hand, and pass your left forefinger alternately over and under the strands in that group - opposite to the nearer shed stick. Grasp the outermost strand on the right side, pull it through the temporary shed formed by your finger. Add that strand to the left group of strands.
Step 4: Continue, alternating between steps 2 and 3 above until half the garter has been plaited. Meanwhile, adjust the tension of the individual strands continuously so that the weave is tight and the outer edges even.
Step 5: Turn the garter, remove the shed sticks, and secure the woven half of the garter as above. Select a mode of working the midsection - 3 are given here: From the middle, begin again with steps 2 and 3 above. Using this method, the centre of the plait will have a hole. [left diagram] Plait the centre strands (all of the same colour) and the outermost strands (the other colour). Then continue with steps 2 and 3 above. [centre diagram] Plait the centre section until all threads have changed sides. Then continue with steps 2 and 3 above. [right diagram]
And some additional ways of handling the middle:
Step 6: Continue repeating steps 2 and 3 above until the second half of the garter is finished.
Step 7: Select a method of finishing the ends: Divide the strands into 3 groups (one colour in each group), and plait each group separately in a normal 3-way plait [diagram 1]. Plait all the strands together in one 3-way plait [diagram 2]. Divide the strands into 3, 4 or 5 groups, depending on the number of strands, and plait each group individually as a 3-way plait, finishing each with a small knot [diagram 3]. Tabby weave a small section with some weft. Fold 1/2 centimetre to the back side, and sew [diagram 4]. My Norwegian-made garters simply have a strand of one of the colours tightly wound around the end of the plaiting (and fastened), leaving about 3 inches of the plaited strands free as a tassel.

Translated by L. Ruus, based on material provided by L. Agerskov, Folkedans Danmark course on Danish folk costumes, 2017.
Created 2019-03-14, rev. 2022-10-07.